The model is applicable with the following three uni-directional wave descriptions:
· Regular waves
The waves are described as a series of regular wave trains, each characterised by the wave height and frequency of occurrence. The wave heights are Rayleigh distributed and the wave period is fixed. Each wave train is tracked across the coastal profile similar to the regular waves.
The statistical description of the wave heights is a truncated Rayleigh distribution where the upper bound is the local maximum wave height. The mean wave energy balance equation is applied to calculate the rms-value of the wave heights across the coastal/beach profile, whereas the wave period is fixed.
The use of Battjes and Janssen demands longer profiles as the wave-breaking in theory starts at deeper waters.
