Depth-induced wave breaking is the process by which waves dissipate energy when the waves are too high to be supported by the water depth, i.e. reach a limiting wave height/depth ratio.
There are four ways to describe wave breaking:
· No wave breaking
· Specified gamma (Battjes and Janssen (1978))
Gamma parameters are specified
· Specified fraction of breaking waves (for Transport in point only)
· Functional form (Nelson (1987)) (for Littoral drift only)
Gamma parameters are derived internally