Wave breaking

Depth-induced wave breaking is the process by which waves dissipate energy when the waves are too high to be supported by the water depth, i.e. reach a limiting wave height/depth-ratio.

The formulation used in the spectral wave module is based on the formulation of Battjes and Janssen (1978). This model has been used successfully in the past in fully spectral models as well as in parameterized versions.

If wave breaking is included you have to specify the Gamma parameter used in the breaking formulation. The Gamma parameter can be specified in three ways

·         Specified Gamma

·         Functional form (Ruessink et. al. 2003)

·         Functional form (Nelson (1987, 1994))

Wave breaking specification
General description
Remarks and hints